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Outfitting

What to fix on a used kayak

Most of the damage on a second-hand hull is cosmetic and can be ignored. Four things are not, and one of them is a reason to walk away.

By Scooter M.Updated September 2026Facts re-checked September 2, 2026Prices not yet verifiedFirst published September 2, 2026.

Disclosure: we earn a commission if you buy through the links on this page, at no extra cost to you. It does not change which products we pick or how we rank them. How this site is funded.

A scratched kayak hull resting on the ground

The short answer

Quick picks

Ranked for the person outfitting a used boat: what it costs, what it does, and who should skip it. 3 picks.

#ProductBest forOur scorePrice
1Harmony Scupper StoppersTapered rubber, 0.875" to 1.5", with tether holes in the tabs.Wilderness Systems hulls8.1Check price on Amazon#ad how this is fundedNo verified price yet — we show a number only once we have fetched it.
2Attwood Hand Bilge PumpUp to 8 gpm, floating grip. The one that empties a swamped boat.Getting water out8.2Check price on Amazon#ad how this is fundedNo verified price yet — we show a number only once we have fetched it.
3Skwoosh Paddling Cushion13 oz, 1" of gel, non-skid base. Fixes the actual complaint.A numb backside8.0Check price on Amazon#ad how this is fundedNo verified price yet — we show a number only once we have fetched it.

Scores are our editorial assessment against the criteria published on how we pick. They are not test results, and they are not marked up as review ratings.

What you can safely ignore

A used polyethylene kayak looks worse than it is. Almost all the damage you can see is irrelevant to whether it floats and paddles.

  • Surface scratches. Years of being dragged up ramps. They have no effect on strength and essentially none on speed at recreational pace. Ignore them.
  • Deep gouges that have not gone through. Run a fingernail across; if it catches but you cannot see light through it, the hull is fine. A hot air gun can smooth a raised burr if it bothers you, but it is cosmetic.
  • Sun fade. A boat that was red and is now pink has faded pigment. That alone is cosmetic — but see the brittleness note below, because heavy fade is a signal about something else.
  • Scuffed hatch covers and worn stickers. Cosmetic.

The four things that actually matter

1. Cracks that go all the way through. Hold the boat up and look for light. Check especially at the bow and stern, at the scupper tubes, and around any hardware. A through-crack in polyethylene is repairable by plastic welding, and that is a specialist job that costs real money on a cheap boat.

2. Deformation. Set the boat down on a flat surface and look along it from the bow. A hull that was stored badly — on its side against a wall, or strapped down hard on a hot roof — can hold a permanent flat spot or a twist. A flat spot makes the boat track badly and it is very hard to reverse. Mild dents will often relax if you leave the boat in the sun the right way up; a twist will not.

3. Water inside the hull. Lift the bow. If you hear sloshing, water is inside a cavity that should be sealed. On a sit-on-top the usual cause is a cracked scupper tube; on a sit-in it is a failed bulkhead or a hole under a fitting. This is the fault most worth finding, because it gets worse and because the boat gets heavier all season.

4. Brittleness from UV. Heavy fade plus a chalky surface that leaves powder on your finger means years outdoors, and UV does eventually make polyethylene brittle rather than just faded. Press firmly on a large flat panel: it should flex and spring back. If it feels stiff and makes a crackling sound, walk away. That is the one on this list that is not economic to fix.

The cheap fixes worth doing straight away

Deck rigging and bungees. Elastic perishes in UV and a ten-year-old bungee has no elasticity left. Replacing all of it with fresh cord costs very little and takes an evening, and it restores the places you actually stow things.

Seat straps and buckles. On used boats the strap webbing is usually fine and the plastic buckles have gone brittle. Replacement buckles cost almost nothing. Check this before concluding you need a whole new seat — details on seat upgrades.

Scupper plugs. Rubber perishes. If the previous owner left plugs in for five years they are probably hard and cracked. Cheap to replace, and worth understanding before you refit them.

Hatch seals. A perished foam or rubber seal lets water into the hull every trip. Replacement seal kits exist for most brands, and in the meantime a dry bag inside the hatch does the real work.

Old holes from removed hardware

Very common on a used fishing kayak, where the previous owner took the rod holders and fish finder with them.

Every abandoned hole is a leak. The fix is straightforward: a stainless bolt with a rubber well nut, or a plastic hole plug, bedded in marine sealant. Do this before the first trip rather than after, because a slow leak into the hull is exactly the fault described above and it is annoying to trace later.

If the holes happen to match the bolt pattern of the hardware you were going to fit anyway, reuse them. Scotty publishes the bolt pattern for its mounts specifically so you can check — details on rigging a used fishing kayak.

What to carry once it is fixed

A boat that has had water in it once will have it again, so a hand bilge pump belongs on the deck rather than in the garage. Attwood publishes up to 8 gallons a minute for its hand pump, which is an order of magnitude above the small kayak-specific pumps.

The full list of what a neglected boat needs, priced, is the used kayak rescue kit.

In full

Every pick, in detail

Specs below are the manufacturer's published figures, cited per product. Where a maker does not publish a number, the row says so rather than guessing at it.

#1 · Wilderness Systems hulls

Harmony Scupper Stoppers

Harmony Gear

No photo
8.1our score

Tapered rubber, 0.875" to 1.5", with tether holes in the tabs.

Published specs

FitsSit-on-top kayaks with 1"–1 3/8" scupper holes
Plug taper0.875" at the tip rising to 1.5" at the top
MaterialPliable rubber
TabsFinger tabs, pre-drilled for tethering
CompatibilityWilderness Systems sit-on-tops incl. Tarpon and Ride, 2007 onward
Pack4

Source: Harmony Gear published product specifications, harmonygear.com

Our score, broken out

  • Fit8.0
  • Material7.5
  • Retention8.5
  • Value8.5
Check price on Amazon#ad how this is fundedNo verified price yet — we show a number only once we have fetched it.

What it gets right

  • The taper is the reason these work across a range of hole sizes instead of fitting exactly one hull.
  • Pre-drilled tabs mean you can tether them. Untethered scupper plugs are consumables.

What it gets wrong

  • Only rated for 1"–1 3/8" holes — measure yours before ordering.
  • Rubber perishes in UV. These are a repeat purchase, not a lifetime part.

Who should skip it

Skip them entirely if you paddle in surf or moving water. Scuppers exist to drain the boat; plugging them keeps you drier in flat water and keeps the water IN when a wave puts it there.

#2 · Getting water out

Attwood Hand Bilge Pump

Attwood

No photo
8.2our score

Up to 8 gpm, floating grip. The one that empties a swamped boat.

Published specs

FlowUp to 8 gallons per minute
GripFloating
BodyPlastic
Lengths18" and longer variants

Source: Attwood published product specifications, attwoodmarine.com

Our score, broken out

  • Flow9.5
  • Ergonomics8.0
  • Stowage6.5
  • Value8.5
Check price on Amazon#ad how this is fundedNo verified price yet — we show a number only once we have fetched it.

What it gets right

  • 8 gpm is an order of magnitude above the small kayak hand pumps, and volume is the entire point of a bilge pump.
  • A floating grip means dropping it in the water is an inconvenience rather than a loss.

What it gets wrong

  • The 18"-plus body is long for a small cockpit — check it stows where you can reach it while seated.
  • Plastic construction; the shaft is the failure point if you lean on it.

Who should skip it

Skip it if it will live in a hatch. A bilge pump you cannot reach while sitting in a swamped boat is decoration. Deck-bungee it or do not buy it.

#3 · A numb backside

Skwoosh Paddling Cushion

Skwoosh

No photo
8.0our score

13 oz, 1" of gel, non-skid base. Fixes the actual complaint.

Published specs

Weight13 oz
Dimensions13" × 16" × 1"
Cover70-denier waterproof nylon
BaseIntegrated polyurethane non-skid
FillGel

Source: Skwoosh published product specifications, skwoosh.com

Our score, broken out

  • Support6.0
  • Attachment8.5
  • Durability8.0
  • Value9.5
Check price on Amazon#ad how this is fundedNo verified price yet — we show a number only once we have fetched it.

What it gets right

  • Most seat complaints are pressure, not posture. A gel pad addresses pressure directly and costs a fraction of a seat system.
  • The non-skid base is the reason it stays put — cheap cushions slide out from under you on the first wake.
  • 13 oz and it works with the seat you already have.

What it gets wrong

  • It adds 1" of height, which raises your center of gravity slightly in a tippy boat.
  • It does nothing whatsoever for back support.

Who should skip it

Skip it if your lower back is what hurts. Gel under you will not hold your spine up — that is what the GTS Elite is for, and no cushion substitutes.

FAQ

Questions people actually ask

Are scratches on a used kayak a problem?

Almost never. Surface scratches from years of being dragged up ramps have no effect on strength and essentially none on speed at recreational pace.

What matters is whether a gouge has gone all the way through. Hold the boat up and look for light, especially at the bow, stern, scupper tubes and around any hardware.

What is a spray deck for kayaking?

A spray deck, or spray skirt, is a fabric or neoprene cover that seals the cockpit of a sit-in kayak around your waist, keeping waves and rain out of the boat.

It is standard for sea kayaking and whitewater. It is unnecessary for flat-water recreational paddling, and a sit-on-top cannot use one at all — its equivalent is the scupper drainage.

How do I know if a used kayak has water inside the hull?

Lift the bow and listen for sloshing. Water inside a cavity that should be sealed is the fault most worth finding, because it gets worse and the boat gets heavier all season.

On a sit-on-top the usual cause is a cracked scupper tube. On a sit-in it is a failed bulkhead or a hole under a fitting where hardware was removed.

How do I fill old holes in a kayak deck?

A stainless bolt with a rubber well nut, or a plastic hole plug, bedded in marine sealant. Do it before the first trip rather than after — a slow leak into the hull is hard to trace later.

If the old holes match the bolt pattern of hardware you were going to fit anyway, reuse them. Scotty publishes its mount bolt patterns so you can check before drilling anything new.

We have not paddled with any of this gear. Everything above comes from published specifications, cited manuals and live retailer prices. Here is exactly how we pick.

Sources

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